On 8/24/2010 8:05 AM, sian_at_essentially_me wrote:
> Dear Jane
>
> I'm sure lots of others will respond to this too as there are different approaches.
>
> We blend our perfumes using single note "extraits" which are 20% aromatic in 80% fragrance base and add our botanical musk fixative.
>
> We then dilute with more fragrance base and top up with 8-10% water, added gradually.
>
> Our fragrance base is made from either denatured ethanol or organic grain alcohol at 95% strength (you can't get stronger as alcohol absorbs water from the atmosphere). We soften the smell and drying effect on the skin of this alcohol with the addition of a small % of botanicals. We then age it for a minimum of 3 months - a technique borrowed from the wine and spirits industry!
>
Hi Sian, Alec, Folks...
Hope the ListMom forgives the split post...
Luca Turin is kind of a hotshot in the perfumery World, I guess...He is
also not a fan of NP....
Too bad he doesn't know about Alec and Sian.... His gripe about NP seems
to be that natural essences (EOs, Absolutes), when used to make up a
perfume, because of their inherent complexities, lack the clarion call
notes that the syns provide....NP blends tend to be murky, in
comparison, to his senses...
It would seem that composing with the extraits, and by extension, the
isolates (which I am trying to figure out), would overcome this gripe on
his part...while opening up a brand new realm for NPers...
See...it's not just redoing what the the Pre-Synthetic Masters did...NP
has a cutting edge aspect to it, also, because of new material
availability.....
Now, I haven't read a lot of Turin, and I am not sure exactly what
particular bug he has shoved up where, exactly, about NP...Was reading
"The Secret of Scent"...My comments are somewhat based on that....
He had me when he put "1 fl oz" on the bottom of the cover, implying the
contents...<G>....!
Anyway, maybe is time the NP folks show him.....No....?
Care.....
--
Gary W. Bourbonais
L'Hermite Aromatique
A.J.P. (GIA)
http://www.facebook.com/Le.Hermite
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